October 24, 2003, 7:05:30 am - Puente de Calmotlan, Mexico

One of my greatest adventures was a jeep trip from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara via dirt roads over the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range - a story for another time. Puente de Calmotlan is about 85 miles northwest of Guadalajara and 100 miles northeast of Puerto Vallarta as the crow flys. By car, it's an eight-hour drive from PV - very much off the tourist routes. I doubt this small mountain town has changed in the past 17 years. I'm drawn to doors and walls and this one has a lot of history and character.